The Lair of the Audiophile!

[MessiaaH]

Disclaimer:

This thread is designed to help users find the easiest path into the world of high end audio. Ask all questions you'll like answered, post your gear, and just enjoy listening.

=================Section 1=================

Path to becoming an Audiophile (Headphone Edition):

Step 1 - Getting Started

• Purchase HiFi Headphones
• Use JRiver Media Center
• Get all music in Lossless Format (FLAC, ALAC, WMA Lossless)

Step 2 - Headphone Amp
Step 3 - DAC (Discrete DAC / Discrete Sound Card)
Step 4 - Buttkicker!

Each of these steps can be followed in order to creep your way to becoming an audiophile. Feel free to do all steps at once 

Reference Threads / Sites:

MessiaaH's Audio Gear
The Buttkicker
Head-Fi.org
Headphone Buyer's Guide
HeadRoom
HDTracks

[MessiaaH]

=================Section 2=================

Jriver Media Center: Best Media Player for Hifi Audio

Jriver can be used to play any media format and has the best audio processing engine I know of. Once you get up to a Discrete DAC, Jriver has a feature to pass Bitperfect Audio to your DAC device. This is where you want to be. Here's a brief description and how to configure:

WASAPI is Microsoft's most modern method for talking with sound devices. WASAPI stands for Windows Audio Session API. It is available in Windows Vista, Windows 7, and newer. It allows delivering an unmodified bitstream to a sound device.

WASAPI support was first added to Media Center 13. Media Center 15 added event style WASAPI support.

Configure:



Tips:
1. Not all DACs would support Wasapi Event Style, if you notice anomalies in your audio, change to regular wasapi.
2. When using a high quality DAC, avoid EQ, BassBoost, any of that stuff, also rightclick the volume control in Jriver and set it to "Disable Volume" Ensuring you're passing a purely un-altered signal to your DAC.
3. Use the icon in the top right of jriver to ensure no changes are being made to your audio:



Lossless Audio:

Lossless data compression is a class of data compression algorithms that allows the original data to be perfectly reconstructed from the compressed data. When using Lossy Formats (MP3s), the data is compressed to the point that when reconstructed, data is missing. This missing data presents itself as missing quality in your music. In most cases, entire instruments go missing in the audio file. Using a lossless format, you conserve storage space, whiles still having the full complete audio file as intended by the artist.

Lossless Audio Formats include : FLAC, ALAC, WMA Lossless (FLAC is the most widely accepted format and should be your preferred choice)

Most Lossless audio can be acquired in 16bit/44.1KHzz format. Which is perfectly fine. 16bit/96KHz is the next up. And 24bit/192KHz is pretty much where you'll cap out for now. The higher you go, the better it sounds.
MP3s are usually 128bit, good MP3s are 384, in contrast, Lossless Audio Range from 1000-1500kbits 

You can get your audio into these digital formats by Ripping from Purchased Media (Audio CDs from Amazon Etc, A standard audio disc has 16bit/44.1KHz/1000-1500kbs) or Buying digital audio. HDTracks.org collection is not that large, but it's a nice source for some high quality audio. The Michael Jackson albums are stellar! DBPowerAmp CD Ripper  and  Exact Audio Copy are good programs to use for ripping.

You can also use DBPowerAmp for audio conversion from and to any format.

[MessiaaH]

=================Section 3=================

Here are some Kit's assembled at different price ranges, choose according to your budget.
Recommend by MessiaaH and Crixx

======Toddler: $200======

.

Creative SB1040 Sound Blaster X-Fi Xtreme Audio PCI-E Sound Card
Electric Avenues PA2V2 Amp

+

. .

Sennheiser HD 518 Headphones (Black)
Grado Prestige Series SR-60i Padded Headphones
Audio-Technica ATH-M30x Professional


=================================================

======Starter: $300-400======

 
Schiit Audio Magni Amp
Schiit Audio Modi DAC

+

. .

Audio-Technica ATH-M50 / Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x
Sennheiser HD558
Beyerdynamic DT-770-PRO-32

=================================================

===Head-Fi: $450-500===

The headphones included in this kit are stellar phones. The Hifiman HE400 has my personal best headphones under $500 recommendation. These headphones are good enough to scale into the higher levels, so they can be easily combined with amps/dacs from the "Bitrate Junkie" kit. These cans scale up very well.

Starter Kit

+

.

beyerdynamic DT 990 Premium 32 ohm
HiFiMan - HE-400

[MessiaaH]

===Bitrate Junkie===
Kit Price Range: $1400-2000

Each of the headphones in the Head-Fi kit can be used with great results when combined with the below kits. Also, each of the headphones included below can easily scale to the Audiophile kit. They represent some of the best headphones around for the price and extremely good value for the money. The Audeze LCD-2 is my personal favorite of the bunch and considered one of the best headphones ever made. A true Gem. If you get your hands on one of those, you'll be smiling ear to ear. 


$800
.

Schiit Audio Valhalla
Schiit Audio Bifrost

--or--

$947


ALO Audio Pan Am + The Gateway + The Passport

--or--

$999


Woo Audio WA7 Fireflies

+

$599

HiFiMAN HE-500

--or--

$799

Fostex TH-600

--or--

$850

Sennheiser HD 700

--or--

$995.00

Audeze LCD-2

[MessiaaH]

===Audiophile!===
Kit Price Range:$2000 >

All of these headphones are considered to be amount the best in the world, each leading a particular strength in it's class. At this class of headphones, pairing with the right amp is particularly important and the best match will be indicated accordingly. Choose wisely and feel free to ask questions.

===Headphones===

	Audeze LCD-3: $2000 Audeze is one of the two leaders in the Planar Magnetic implementation of headphones. (Hifiman being the other). And though amongst the easier to drive planar headphones, the lcd2/3 benefits tremendously from a powerful amp. These cans are rich and lush, whiles still providing tons of energy, punch, detail retrieval, with stellar mid range. Considered to have the best bass in any headphone ever made. Best Bass Headphones in the world! (My personal flagship) Strength: Bass King! Pairs well with: RSA Dark Star, ALO Audio Studio Six, Eddie Current Balancing Act.
	HiFiMAN HE-6: $1300 This headphones is one of the best, but requires the most power you can feed it to sound as it should. One of the hardest headphones around to drive. As such only the most powerful amps would be recommended as a minimum for this phones. Hifiman has solved this by releasing an amp designed specifically for this headphones. Once paired, you'll have one of the best sounding kits available in that price range. Uses the same planar tech as the Audeze series. Strength: Many of the qualities of the LCD3 but with less and tighter bass, and more treble. Pairs well with: HiFiMAN EF-6, All LCD-3 Amps
	Fostex TH-: $1500 Currently one of the most all rounded, reference headphones on the market. Very revealing, relatively neutral, never fatiguing. Organic sound without being overly smooth. Go to headphone of choice by many audiophiles Strength: Best All Rounded Pairs well with: Fostex HP-A8C
	Sennheiser HD 800: $1500 Ruthlessly revealing headphone. Like the Hifiman HE6, The HD 800 needs to be matched well with a good headphone amplifier (with this headphone, the best results can be had with tube amps).  Match it up poorly, and it can be overly bright. Drive it well, and it'll reward you with what will probably be the best sound quality you've ever heard from headphones.  This can is very picky, but can sound amazing once you've gotten it right. Studio Reference cans, not for everyone. Strength: Neutrality King, Revealing, Comfort Pairs well with: Powerful Tube Amps
	Stax SR-009: $4450 Simply put.... the best headphone in the world. #mic.wired.directly.to.brain Strength: Detail King, Clarity King, Resolution King Pairs well with: Woo Audio WES: $5000 (Requires Electrostatic Amp)

===Amps===

RSA Dark Star: $3500	ALO Audio Studio Six: $4100	EC Balancing Act: $3950

[Fkacn_tt]

So what would you consider a good entry head set on a budget. I talking cornbeef and rice budget, lol.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[MessiaaH]

So what would you consider a good entry head set on a budget. I talking cornbeef and rice budget, lol.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Headsets don't belong on this thread, hifi queries only. Go check the other threads for headset garbage, or Wyatt.

[Crixx_Creww]

Lulz @ head set muggle interest

[Fkacn_tt]

Wrong terminology but I meat a good pair of headphones.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[MessiaaH]

See above of what I consider entry, and above that the toddler section. Anything lower than toddler i'd consider crap and would not recommend to anyone.

[RustyPlumber]

Wrong terminology but I meat a good pair of headphones.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

a great pair of entry levels are the Sennheiser HD 201's. Dont take my word for it (although i had a pair at one point in time), let the reviews speak for themselves.

http://www.headphone.com/headphones/sennheiser-hd-201.php


MessiaaH,not everyone can afford uber high end stuff,even some may consider the toddler stuff to be a bit pricey.Plus personally people who refer to themselves as "Audiophiles" i consider snobs.

[MessiaaH]

The intended purpose of the thread is to get man into this audiophile thing. It have countless other threads to address non-pricey products. So I not wasting time recommending anything lower.
But, Agreed @ what you said, and nothing stopping others like yourself from recommending sub-tod.

You did recommended a stellar sub-tod though.

Also keep in mind guys, their are tons of alternatives to everything above, I just list the ones I'm familiar with and generally known as the better options to ease the transition to this fun hobby, but I always encourage to do your own research and read read read.

[W1nTry]

personally people who refer to themselves as "Audiophiles" i consider snobs.

The same can be said about PC Elitist,  or 'Athletes',  or Ivy leaguers, etc. It doesn't really matter what ppl call themselves in here because this is meant to be a guide to help ppl to finding what's best for them. Even a pompous person can be informative if you filter out the noise. 

Suggestions are welcome, constructive discussion is welcome. Wasting ppl time with repetitive questions or hidden agendas isn't.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

[MessiaaH]

Exactly wintry.

The purpose of this thread is to help ppl who serious about improving their audio experience. the trolling, the pointless questions, the arguing bout who is snob, the hifi being pointless, the hidden agendas, all that rubbish will not be tolerated on this particular thread, and a strict delete and desist policy is in effect as of now. Ah want this thread clean.

Who don't like it, there's the door. Who have positive contribution / suggestions or Who interested and want help, you're fully welcomed.

[MessiaaH]

Thread Update Feb 15, 2014:Audiophile Section Updated - Remaining Amps and Dacs coming soon.

[AR!Ø]

Very nice. the snobbery part of it is pretty moot at this point imo. I myself won't shell out for an expensive set of cans, but as a sale hawk I will grab something that I consider to be a fair buy - case in point, I picked up a pair of Sennheiser HD518's for CAD$80, its regular price being $160. Very nice buy for me, despite the fact that I was looking to pick up an ATH-M50. I played the entirety of MGSR on it and was not disappointed.

I think maybe an addition to this thread might be headphone amps - along with the HD518 I also bought a Fiio E6 (tiny portable thing but I am liking it thus far).

I'm also looking into investing in a DAC possibly; as an ITX motherboard user I am left without a plethora of options in the audio department, so it's either going to be one of these or a motherboard upgrade, which in the end may be a cheaper and more importantly effective solution - ASUS ROG motherboards are reputed to have decent if not above average sound, and if that is not up to the task on the ITX front, there are many other options left.

I find that DAC's do not leave much for the budget oriented users, but to be fair if you are not as concerned with audio quality as with other aspects of your media then to each his own. As an inexperienced audio snob I find after using the HD518 that I can just as easily go back to using my Logitech G430 without too much fuss, though I do appreciate the differences in their reproduction. I would love to hear more on the subject of soundcards and even opinions on laptop audio for those who can share.

Recommendations on external sound solutions would also be very much appreciated

[MessiaaH]

Every kit above has both recommended amps and dacs, so they are included.....

I also planned on doing another section for portable amps like the Fio

[RustyPlumber]

personally people who refer to themselves as "Audiophiles" i consider snobs.

The same can be said about PC Elitist,  or 'Athletes',  or Ivy leaguers, etc. It doesn't really matter what ppl call themselves in here because this is meant to be a guide to help ppl to finding what's best for them. Even a pompous person can be informative if you filter out the noise. 

Suggestions are welcome, constructive discussion is welcome. Wasting ppl time with repetitive questions or hidden agendas isn't.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

no,you mistake my point of my whole statement.,with PC enthusiast even though their spending top dollar,there is real life performance gains with their systems,with high end,its subjective to the listener. "X" Pair of speakers for $100,000 can sound like a piece of crap to others,even in blind test,you see how much fail there is.Which cables "sound" better than other cables and all that bullcrap.

If you think i'm trying to troll your thread,you all are dead wrong,i have over 11 years experience in "high end" audio.Since i got my first pair of klipsch promedia 2.1 back in 2002,I've been fond of finding equipment that can reproduce better sound.It boils down to who can throw more money at their system though basically.

take a look:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xs1aUws0Lrs

[MessiaaH]

No its not about who can throw more money at their systems, I've heard very expensive setups that get own by cheaper setups. Its about doing your research and finding what truly performs the best, finding the right synergies, using the right cables for your specific gear, etc etc etc.

And everyone knows that in any hobby like this, the higher up you go, you get diminishing returns for ur money. A fact that has been well document in my personal hifi thread if you bothered to read that. But their is a ginormous gap that exists between high end audio and the average stuff, that gap is drastic until you get up to say the "Bitrate Junkie", you will hear enormous and significant increase in audio fidelity and performance. Once you pass that and hit audiophile level, the gains for the money are far less. But the gains are most definitely present. Take the lcd2 for instance. A stellar headphone, well worth it's asking price, some mite argue though, that the improvements made to the lcd3 (better clarity, midrange, better treble, better soundstage) is not worth an additional $1000, but then that's what makes an Audiophile , that's what makes an insane pc builder, that's what makes the dude that wants to squeeze the last ounce of performance from their vehicles. The guys that think, that extra 10% performance is worth it.

I've made this journey in both audio and computer gaming, from the cheapest of cheap, right up to the upper end of the scale in both areas. And if I had to do both all over again, id change nothing. Now you have a look:









And I very much intend to go higher, maybe some day own that sexy sr009, want to hear it in person first.

[MessiaaH]

I've been into audio/PCs years before I join GATT, my entire journey not recorded here lol. Watch all those videos.
And like I said, ah not condoning no fight down and crap comments. I left the "constructive" comments you made, the last two is just trolling.

The purpose of this thread is to help ppl who serious about improving their audio experience. the trolling, the pointless questions, the arguing bout who is snob, the hifi being pointless, the hidden agendas, all that rubbish will not be tolerated on this particular thread, and a strict delete and desist policy is in effect as of now. Ah want this thread clean.

Who don't like it, there's the door. Who have positive contribution / suggestions or Who interested and want help, you're fully welcomed.