Have a hot cpu, that idles at 50 degrees, and loads at 60 despite your giant heatsink?
do you have to UNDERCLOCK to prevent shutdowns and restarts? did you ever loose a CPU/MOBO due to a huge, gaping , mound of molten silicon and metal replacing your pride and joy?
Download a cooling utility such as CPU idle [recommended by me] , installl it and use your motherboard monitor to watch the temps fall . If it still is too hot for you, go into the BIOS, and decrease the CPU voltage as low as it can [ stabley] go .
One of the biggest user of power on your CPU is its FSB , the lower it is, the cooler your cpu will be . If you are brave enough , find out how to pin mod your chip to unlock the multipliers, so you can maintain your high clock speed , if you already have unlocked multipliers [like me] don't bother, if you do not fall into either catagory, doing this will decrease your system speed significantly .
Notes : Direct X9 c seems to have disabled some of the other cpu cooling programs from working properly and increased temps a bit , Cpu idle still works well , and the hacked full version is not hard to find .
Consult your motherboard manual before entering BIOS . Reducing FSB significantly also reduces system performance despite high clock, do this only if you are willing to sacrifice it .
I am down from loading at 60 degrees, idling at 46 , to idling at 44 , and loading at 56 . [ similar temps prior to installing Direct x 9 c ]
I have a scenario that fits this kinda save its overclocking... Trini my cpu was capable of running at 2.3GHz or FSB 200 on my previous A7N8X-X board with the RAM running asynchronously at 166. I now have a A7V880 and its doesn't run stably at 200 anymore at least not while playing Halo, I haven't really tested Doom 3 etc... even so its not stable at 2.2Ghz even. In fact its less stable. It a 2600+ Barton, it currently idles at around 45-46 and runs up to 52 when under load, when it was at 2.3GHz it idled at 47-49 and under load 52-56. Any suggestions?
Well with some more tweaking of the settings its become stable now back to its 2.3GHz, I set the Core voltage to 1.75 and that seems to have done the trick. As for getting the A7N8X-E Deluxe.... I thought about it but then realised that it was more expensive and gave little more performance plus the KT880 has SATA Raid etc and I have a sound blaster Audigy so I didn't need the Sound storm (though its pretty good). And its not that gay at overclocking I did some research before I bought it and the only keep back is it reaches a top of 227MHz FSB other than that all reviews said it was stable and well capable of such speeds in fact they suspected it would be better if the BIOS allowed for it. Oh and it has a AGP frequecy lock so the OC doesn't screw up the AGP and PCI bus. Anys all games I run now are stable and fine at 2.3GHz. The 2600+ Barton is not a bad chip to overclock i've overclocked 2 so far to a FSB of 200 without any restarts.One more thing, those are some cool pointers for the heatsink, but I have a Volcano 9 which has a copper inserted base.... so I am bit hesitant to emery it down, when that time comes i'll see....
The 2600 barton isn't meant to run @ 200FSB , may be your chip just started to hate you, or your board doesn't like you . 166=DDR 333 , to run at high FSB comfortably overclocked, you need to have the RAM the same speed as the FSB . If you have high quality DDR you should be able to reach 200 RAM . Set the bios to keep the RAM the same speed as the bus . For cooling purposes, i just recently lapped my heatsink. Though i did a really crappy job at it, my temps dropped several degrees [2-3] , if you ever have time to kill, get yourself some sandpaper fit for polishing metal, and start scrubbing!Keep a little water running over the base , just enough to clean away the dust produced, wet your sandpaper . Scrub in a 'figure 8' motion , don't apply much pressure . After about a half hour, and your heatsink should start becoming reflective [ more so if it was mirror like before ] when dry . There is a virus going around that makes your PC cook, it has a process 'sys32usbdrv.exe' or something similar, that takes up alot of CPU time . I left my PC on one day, came back in the evening and found it loading at 60 degrees! the temps dived once i killed the process . Ways of knowing your PC is too hot :Constant restarts/lockups [and you are not running XP home or ME ] 'Hard drive read error' on bootup [ means your CPU is cooking'Kmixer.exe memory error' bluescreens when gaming . [ means your RAM is cookingyou see white dots , snow, tearing etc. on the screen [ means your video card is cooking . Your motherboard monitor starts warning you of high temps, shutting down processes etc. A7V880 = Kt880 right? those things are known to be gay for overclocking , Nforce II ultra gives better performance , if you just wanted a pile of nice features , you should have gotten an Abit AN7, or an A7n8x-E like mine , gigabit lan, SATA raid , Soundstorm audio [which is better than a 200 USD Audigy sound blaster! ]
Ways of knowing your PC is too hot :
Synth:nf2 in general can attain higher fsb than any other xp chipset.What ram did you use to reach 227? My guess your timings are crap at that fsb. Or is that the article value?1.75 is weak i recommend at least 1.85 vcoresmoothing a v9 would not make any sig difference might make it even worse depending on what thermal paste your using.
I test load temps by running Super Pi to 8~16 million while surfing, or playing Doom III for half hour , ctrl-esc and looking at my mobo monitor . CPU idle DOES decrease CPU temps , i just turned it off and my temp started to climb from 40 to 45 . IT does so by shutting down registers and cache not in use on the CPU , and it works VERY well, instead of knocking it : TRY IT . the virus DID make my PC cook like a chinese resturant , as soon as i discovered that i DID have a virus, and removed it , my temps were on average, 5 C lower , i know it caused the PC to load , cause in the task manager menu there was a little '99%' next to the process whenever it ran . No i did not have CPU idle at the time AMD Tbirds with crappy cooling have been known to melt , my bro built a system for someone, and it DID melt, the cpu melt through the board and stuck to the case . And yes the HSF WAS running even AFTER the cpu went molten [ note : this only happens if you have crappy cooling + hot chip, and you don't have auto shut down when temps exceed safe, turned on ] , This is the reason why AMD boards adopted the auto shutdown feature . I just turned CPU idle back on.. my temps are back down to 39 C [ its frikking cold tonite too ] , True, underclocking is the wrong way to gain stability, but if you can't find the REAL problem, and underclocking gives you the stability anyhow , you have to do it . true , 50 degrees idle/ 60 degrees load is common for an athlon XP overclocked/ stock athlon with crap cooling . lets say , idling in the lower 60s and loading in the upper 70 s as unhealthy .
shutting down registers and cache not in use on the CPU
QuoteSynth:nf2 in general can attain higher fsb than any other xp chipset.What ram did you use to reach 227? My guess your timings are crap at that fsb. Or is that the article value?1.75 is weak i recommend at least 1.85 vcoresmoothing a v9 would not make any sig difference might make it even worse depending on what thermal paste your using.[_[ Actually I have Kingston HyperX which is spec at cas 2 with timings 2-2-2-5Secondly I have a Volcano 9 with Artic Silver thermal compoundLastly 227 translates into 454MHz FSB its 227x2 as in 200x2 to get 400FSB or 166x2 for 333.... but u already knew that. I mean come on from 333-454 is that so weak?
Actually I have Kingston HyperX which is spec at cas 2 with timings 2-2-2-5
Secondly I have a Volcano 9 with Artic Silver thermal compound
Lastly 227 translates into 454MHz FSB its 227x2 as in 200x2 to get 400FSB or 166x2 for 333.... but u already knew that. I mean come on from 333-454 is that so weak?
Well i'll have to double check which version os AS I have, secondly the RAM is running at those timings cause the truth is the FSB on the CPU is running higher than the RAM. The FSB is at 200 whilst the RAM is running at 333 as its PC2700, and u r right in that to run at 227 the timings would have to be increased to facilitate stabilitiy. But that is not the case in my scenario. My core is currently running at 1.8V, I don't want to run it any higher than that, rem increasing the voltage helps oc but is only a work around to the problem (rising and falling clock edges etc. there is a limit to cranking the core to get stability).One more thing Synth are you a generally angry individual? u seem to be...
Well i'll have to double check which version os AS I have, secondly the RAM is running at those timings cause the truth is the FSB on the CPU is running higher than the RAM. The FSB is at 200 whilst the RAM is running at 333 as its PC2700,
My core is currently running at 1.8V, I don't want to run it any higher than that, rem increasing the voltage helps oc but is only a work around to the problem (rising and falling clock edges etc. there is a limit to cranking the core to get stability).
One more thing Synth are you a generally angry individual? u seem to be...
SynthRunning async on any platform other than P4 and a64 is a BAD IDEA. But to each his own.
QuoteSynthRunning async on any platform other than P4 and a64 is a BAD IDEA. But to each his own.I'd like to think I can prove you wrong on that comment, so time will tell. Its been running async FSB to RAM for over a month now, so i'll see in time if it has any long terms side effects to back ur claim.
