Author Topic: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC  (Read 2469 times)

Offline woodyear99

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Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« on: June 30, 2010, 11:05:46 AM »
Might come in handy for those who looking for a quick upgrade, these parts seem to offer decent price/performance though I'd say more on the pricey side.....

http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/highperformance_upgrades_cheap


Upgrading your PC can be a head-spinning process. Our Lab experts help you sort through the chaos with 18 products that won’t break the bank


These coins can be yours!

The art of the PC upgrade is simultaneously an expression and a test of one’s diagnostic skills, computing savvy, and fiscal sensibilities. Identify the bottleneck. Research the parts that will fix the bottleneck. Remove the bottleneck.

As always, price and performance are the pivot points. After all, you can’t just toss $1,000 at your system to level it up. Well, you can, but in most cases you’d be a fool for doing so.

When the Maximum PC staff convened in conference room Spock to plan this story, we decided to establish some ground rules. First, we challenged ourselves to stick to our theme of a successful budget upgrade. This meant avoiding the tendency to fall back on the most expensive, best-of-breed components in each category.

Instead we forced ourselves to take a more nuanced approach. In each category, we expended considerable energy determining which product(s) owned the sweet spot—top-left on the 2x2 grid if you’re graph-happy—of the price-performance ratio. Staying consistent with our real-world theme, we used real-world pricing from sites like NewEgg and Amazon. Because we’re talking about upgrading an existing machine, you’ll find no case or mobo recommendations here.

Without further adieu, we happily present the results of our research. Below you’ll find a bevy of product recommendations that prove you don’t have to break the bank to achieve substantial gains in performance.
Solid State Drive
40GB Intel X-25V

It’s easy to argue that a budget SSD doesn’t actually exist. That said, a $125 solid state drive can qualify as a budget upgrade in some contexts—and only some of those contexts involve recreational drugs.

Intel’s X-25V solid state drive (the V stands for Value) doesn’t have the fastest sustained write speeds (think 50MB/s, not 200MB/s), but its sustained read speeds top 150MB/s and its random-access writes are triple any of its peers’. This makes it perfect as an OS drive, which relies more on reads and writes than on sustained writes.

Give your aging laptop a kick in the pants by replacing its hard drive with an SSD.

If you don’t mind keeping data on an external drive or SD card, a 40GB Intel X-25V can also offer a substantial speed boost to the 5,400rpm drive on your netbook or older laptop. And if you’re moving to Windows 7, the X-25V supports TRIM, which will prevent performance degradation. $125 is a lot for a hard drive, but for an SSD, it’s downright reasonable given the performance bump you’ll experience.

✔ SSD for $125
✔ TRIM support prevents degradation


Mechanical Drive
Seagate Barracuda 7200.12

In the old days, the prospective hard drive buyer had to choose between high performance and high capacity. Heck, if you’re planning on upgrading, you probably don’t have either.

Fortunately, while solid state drives have thoroughly usurped the highest end of the performance spectrum, mechanical drives still rule the capacity roost, and they’re only getting faster. To wit: the 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200.12, which costs just $80 and offers sustained read and write speeds of over 100MB/s.

Speed and capacity unheard of when you bought your rig, now yours for less than $100.

While it can’t match the speeds or random-access times of WD’s VelociRaptor drives or SSDs, the 1TB Barracuda is capacious enough for all your apps and data—unless you’re in the habit of ripping Blu-ray discs, of course. So, if your OS drive is getting long in the tooth (or just running out of room), moving to a 1TB Barracuda 7200.12 will buy you some breathing room and a substantial speed boost.

✔ 1TB for $80 defines Budget Upgrade
✔ Perfect single-drive solution


Optical Drive
Samsung SH-B083L

If you’re currently performing DVD chores with a 16x burner, an upgrade to a higher burn-speed rating is beyond cheap (shoot, our current Best of the Best 22x Samsung SH-S223 is $20), but not all that satisfying in terms of performance gains. With DVD media stuck at 16x, higher-rated drives only exceed that limit when burning to discs of a particular brand. And even then, you’re looking at a time savings of maybe a minute. Big whoop.

In our opinion, the BD burner is still too pricey an upgrade for its limited usefulness, but a BD ROM combo drive, like Samsung's SH-B083L, makes sense.

Instead, consider the benefits of upgrading to a BD-ROM combo drive. You can get Samsung’s SH-B083L for $100. It gives you the ability to enjoy HD Blu-ray movies on your newly upgraded display, while still offering respectable 16x DVD+/-R write speeds. In our tests, the SH-B083L’s performance was on par with the more expensive Plextor PX-B320SA in everything but DVD ripping, where the Samsung took 15:17 to copy a dual-layer disc vs. 10:47.

✔ Affordable, speedy blu-ray performance


Videocard
ATI Radeon HD 5850

When it comes to videocards, you can count on today’s $300 product being superior to the top-shelf product from two generations back. That’s certainly the case with cards based on the ATI Radeon HD 5850 GPU, which not only deliver superb performance, but do so without requiring a massive power supply.

What might it be replacing? If your gaming rig is three years old and you invested in a high-end videocard, it would have been based on Nvidia’s 8800 GTX, and the card alone would have set you back $600. Besides costing a fortune, that card required a massive heatsink and fan and sucked power from two 6-pin power cables in addition to what it drew from the PCI Express bus (165 watts in total). That GPU boasted amazing performance at the time, and it heralded the arrival of DirectX 10. Today, the card is performance-limited with next-gen DX10 games and it doesn’t support DX11 at all.

At $300, the Radeon HD 5850 is a great deal.

A Radeon HD 5850 card will deliver excellent performance and should remain viable for years to come—as long as you don’t upgrade to a 30-inch display. At 1920x1200 resolution with antialiasing disabled, these cards can run Crysis at 30fps. Boost AA to 4x and you’ll lose just four frames per second in a game that used to bring even the highest-end GPUs to their knees. You’ll fare even better with other titles: Far Cry 2, for example, can easily hit more than 60fps at 1920x1200.

Upgrading to the HD 5850 is a simple decision in other ways, too: It’s 9.5 inches long, so it will fit in any case that housed an 8800 GTX, and you won’t need a new power supply. Lower price, excellent frame rates, and decreased power consumption—what’s not to like?

✔ Hello, DirectX 11 games!
✔ Perfect replacement for the 8800 GTX


Display
Viewsonic VP 2365

Twisted Nematic LCD panels blow. After running through our DisplayMate, Blu-ray, and gaming gauntlet of Lab tests, the TN displays we’ve reviewed retreated with their DVI cables tucked between their legs. So what’s a budget upgrader to do?

If you want our advice—and you do—pick up ViewSonic’s VP2365wb. It’s a 23-inch IPS panel offering 8-bit color depth. It’s equipped with a four-port USB hub and a height-adjustable stand that tilts, rotates, and pivots. And you can find it selling online for about 300 bucks.

This IPS display excelled in our Lab tests.

You will encounter trade-offs: Although it’s marketed as a “professional” monitor, its max resolution is a consumer-ish 1920x1080. It’s dimmer than its pricier competitors, and it doesn’t have an HDMI input. But in Lab tests, we had no problem playing games or movies, and it’s a better photo-editing monitor than any TN display we’ve tested.

✔ In-plane switching display offers superior image and viewing quality


Wi-Fi Router
Belkin Play Router

Belkin has been hit or miss on the router front over the past few years, but its Play router is a definite hit. Here’s a concurrent dual-band 802.11n router (it runs 2.4GHz and 5GHz radios simultaneously) with a virtual guest network, a USB port that can share either a storage device or a printer over the network, and very respectable throughput and range that sells for less than $100.

Belkin's Play router is loaded with high-end features, including two radios and the ability to host a virtual guest network.

The router is self-healing, too. It automatically detects and attempts to resolve network problems, and it will automatically reinitialize itself on a weekly basis (you choose the day and time—or turn off the feature if you don’t like it). If that doesn’t deliver enough value for you, Belkin also throws several applications into the mix. Memory Safe is a utility that runs on your client PCs and automatically backs up whichever directories you designate to an external drive attached to the router. Music Mover is an UPnP- and DLNA-compliant media server. And Daily DJ analyzes your music library and automatically creates playlists based on one of three user-designated moods: High Energy, Steady Groove, or Kick Back. We haven’t used this last feature long enough to have a solid opinion about it, but it wouldn’t detract from this router’s value even it if was unusable.

In fact, there’s just one feature we find wanting on the Play router: It has a four-port 100Mb/s switch, versus a gigabit switch.

✔ Self-healing router
✔ Built-in UPNP/DLNA media server

Mouse and Keyboard
Razer Abyssus Gaming Mouse and Microsoft SideWinder X4 Keyboard

Basic mice and keyboards are commodity-priced goods, available for as little as 10 dollars. They get the job done just fine. But if you’re planning to do any gaming at all, you owe it to yourself to upgrade to a gaming-grade mouse and keyboard combo. This upgrade—one of the cheapest you can make—may very well make the biggest difference.

The Razer Abyssus and Microsoft Sidewinder X4: Lots of features for surprisingly little dough.

For a budget gaming mouse, we recommend the Razer Abyssus ($30). Although it sits at the bottom of Razer’s sizeable gaming lineup and lacks a few of the features we appreciate in a mouse, such as thumb buttons, the Abyssus will feel like a noticeable step up from any non-gaming mouse. With ultra-tactile buttons, a 1,000Hz polling rate, and a very-respectable 3,500dpi optical sensor, the Abyssus should be more than responsive enough for all but the most hardcore gamers.

Our keyboard recommendation is Microsoft’s Sidewinder X4 ($50), which eschews some of the over-the-top bells and whistles of its more expensive X6 sibling, but retains all the features we really care about in a gaming keyboard. These include anti-ghosting (which allows many simultaneous key presses), programmable macro keys, and multiple profiles that switch when you load a game. Physically, the keyboard’s a real beauty, and the extra-springy keys are a joy to use for extended gaming or typing.

✔ 1,000Hz polling rate = responsive gaming
✔ Anti-ghosting keyboard


Power Supply Unit
Corsair 750TX

Picture a raft full of PC components. It’ll take seven days for the rescue boat to arrive, but only five days of food and water remains. Who gets pushed off the raft first? The GPU? The CPU? No way. They’re first-class passengers. The case? The lowly keyboard? Don’t kid yourself. The power supply will be the first to go. Do you know why? Because no one respects the power supply.

No one respects the power supply. Except us. And you (hopefully).

And sadly, that’s the strategy everyone takes when they build a budget PC. We mean everyone. Hell, we’ve even occasionally given the PSU short shrift when push came to shove.

Fortunately, Corsair’s 750TX is one component that might force something else to swim with the sharks. (Yeah, take that, mouse!) With a five-year warranty, a high power-efficiency rating, and a single 62-amp rail, this PSU will keep any budget PC running, even on those sweltering summer days when your components are broiling at 120 degrees. With a street price of $99 and SLI certification for dual GeForce GTX 470 cards, the 750TX strikes a good balance between budget and midrange. Sure, it lacks modular cables, but that just means you can’t misplace the cables.

✔ SLI certified for dual GeForce GTX 470 cards

Speakers
Logitech Z523

Few things suck harder than cheap speakers—well, except maybe cheap TN displays. So we have to wonder how Logitech manages to sell the 2.1-channel Z523 speaker system for less than a hundred bucks. Heck, we’ve seen them selling online for as little as $70!

It's hard to believe Logitech's Z523 speakers costs just $70.

Now, we’ll be the first to admit that these puppies can’t compete with the likes of B&W’s glorious MM-1 system, which we review on page 80, but if you’re seriously considering those bad boys, you aren’t reading a story about budget upgrades. The Z523 isn’t appropriate for critical listening, but it can fill a small room and it has an exceedingly large sweet spot, thanks to the presence of a second driver mounted on the back of the two satellite speakers. These rear-facing drivers bounce audio waves off the wall behind them so that the sound arrives at your ears a microsecond after they’ve heard the front speakers.

The 40-watt amp in the subwoofer sends 9.5 watts to the two-inch full-range dome drivers in the satellites and 21 watts into a four-inch down-firing subwoofer, which is augmented by a six-inch side-facing pressure driver. There’s an input for a digital media player, and separate volume controls for stereo and for bass, so you can crank the lows for gaming. Lastly, there’s a headphone jack for those times when you’d prefer to rock out in private.

✔ Surprisingly rich sound
✔ Rear-facing drivers = large sweet spot


Headphones
Creative Fatal1ty HS-1000 USB Headphones

At around $60, the Fatal1ty HS-1000 headset is hardly the cheapest on the market, but it contains several features we consider a must.

First, we like our gaming headsets to have cans big enough to surround the ear, for maximum noise isolation and comfort. The HS-1000 fits the bill here, with large, oval cans and ample foam padding. Second, we need a decent, adjustable mic—bonus points if it’s removable, for when we’re not playing games. The Fatal1ty gets a gold star here, as well. Third, the set should have some sort of in-line volume/mic control, to make it easy to fine-tune your settings mid-game. Creative’s set has this as well.

Creative's X-Fi drivers emulate the functions of a full-fledged X-Fi soundcard.

Last and most importantly, for us to call any gaming headset an “upgrade,” it has to actually sound good. That means bass deep enough to let you really feel each exploding frag grenade, and highs that let you hear the bullets whizzing past your head. This category is what makes the HS-1000 really shine as a budget headset, thanks in large part to Creative’s excellent X-Fi drivers, which emulate the functions of a full-fledged X-Fi soundcard, including EAX effects and simulated surround sound.

You could go cheaper, and you could certainly go more expensive, but we think that the Creative Fatal1ty HS-1000 hits the budget sweet-spot: strong performance at an amazing price.

✔ X-Fi drivers produce high fidelity
✔ Removable mic reduces geek factor


CPU Cooler
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

The CM Hyper 212 Plus quite epitomizes the “budget upgrade” concept. It requires minimal investment ($30 and half an hour) but can yield big returns for nearly any system. Skeptical? So were we. The Hyper 212 Plus is a CPU cooler with direct-contact heat pipes, which give it excellent performance for its size. It’s one of the best air coolers we’ve ever tested: On our test bed, it cooled a stock-clocked Q6700 at 100 percent CPU utilization down to just 43 C—an 18 C difference from Intel’s stock heatsink.

But why bother upgrading your CPU cooler at all? For the clocks, of course. Overclocking your CPU is the cheapest way to squeeze more performance out of your rig, but overclocked chips put out more heat. By getting a better cooler, you can sustain higher overclocks. Given that the Hyper 212 Plus can install on virtually any socket, performs better than any other air cooler we’ve tested, and only costs $30, it’s one of the best things you can do for your PC.


RAM
The Real Question is: 4GB or 6GB?

For budget buyers, it makes no sense to get caught up in the bandwidth wars that memory makers are waging today. The truth is, unless you use applications with particularly high bandwidth requirements, DDR3/1333 will work fine.

Ultimately, the amount of RAM you should run in a modern PC really depends on your CPU. If you are running an AMD system with dual-channel DDR3, the minimum is 4GB. Likewise, if you are rolling a dual-channel Intel system, then 4GB should be in your sights. Intel systems with tri-channel memory should run a minimum of 6GB of RAM. Anything above 6GB is gravy.

RAM bran: It will keep you regular.

Invariably, first-time upgraders want to know whose memory to buy. Since RAM is generally a commodity component, our guideline is to stick with known brands: Corsair, Crucial, Kingston, OCZ, Patriot. No yellow-box memory, please.

The good news is that RAM prices seem to have stabilized somewhat. We found 4GB of brand-name DDR3 for $100 on the street, with 6GB of brand-name DDR3/1333 in the $160 range.

(cont.)

Carigamers

Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« on: June 30, 2010, 11:05:46 AM »

Offline Saxito Pau

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Re: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« Reply #1 on: June 30, 2010, 11:36:07 AM »
I like this.

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Offline woodyear99

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Re: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« Reply #2 on: June 30, 2010, 01:53:26 PM »
What wrong with the 5850? Good price/performance for $300, not the cheapest card you can buy for sure.

Offline Spazosaurus

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Re: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« Reply #3 on: June 30, 2010, 02:09:45 PM »
I disagree with the monitor, mouse and keyboard. Poiwer supply could pass with a push.

If they can't find a decent tn monitor, they are doing whatever they doing wrong. Epic fail @ recommending as monitor without hdmi. Poor poor conduct.

I personally don't like any other keyboard and mouse other that my g15 and g500 respectively.

The power supply is ok, but a higher capacity unit is wise for future proofing. You want to have a unit that will last at least 2 or 3 upgrades. The 750 is not that unit.

Everything else is passable.

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Re: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2010, 03:37:37 PM »
the psu is ok cause remember most parts are going "green" with an emphasis on powersavings... so the 750w good enough for now. not every budget system gonna run a xtreme cpu and quadfire/quad sli
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Carigamers

Re: Best, Cheapest Ways to Upgrade Your PC
« Reply #4 on: June 30, 2010, 03:37:37 PM »

 


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